Dream A Little Dream

We've recently wrapped up a series on greenhouses and realize that while they are every gardener's dream, sometimes we must dream smaller. Cold frames provide many of the benefits of a greenhouse but on a smaller scale. Cold frames can be used as a storage space for overwintering less hardy plants, or a place to get a jump start on your seedlings. 


Cold frames use the sun's heat so you need to place them in a sunny location, and they need to be butted up against an existing structure. The site must also have good drainage. If your plants are sitting in cold water every day they will die. If possible, try to pick an area that is slightly sloped. You may even want to build a slope. 



There are several ways to build a cold frame. Things to keep in mind:

• Do not to make it so wide that you cannot reach all the way to the back-3 to 4 feet is plenty wide.

• Build the frame to fit the top windows, higher in the back than in the front.

• Add weights to keep the windows from blowing open in storms. Use heavy duty hinges on the windows.

• You will need props for the windows which will need to be opened when temps reach  45+ F.

• On sunny days, you will need to open the windows so your plants don't bake, and on cold days you may want to cover the frame with blankets or burlap bags. Uncover when the sun comes back out.

How To Build A Cold Frame

Happy Gardening!

The Time Is Now

If you plan on planting summer and fall blooming bulbs, it's almost time. It sounds strange, but spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall, and summer/fall blooming bulbs are planted in the spring. If you think about germination, it makes sense. Our widget shows a mere 39 days until the official arrival of spring (yay!), so now is the time to start planning your summer garden. 

Note: Not all bulbs are true bulbs; corms, rhizomes, and tuberous roots will all be referred to as bulbs. There are botanical differences, but, unless you are a scientist, the difference is negligible.

Most Popular Summer/Fall Flower Bulbs

Canna

*Rich, well-drained soil in an area that receives at least 6 hrs full sun 

*Plant with only an inch of soil over the rhizomes; 18-24 inches apart

*When frost kills the foliage, dig up the rhizomes, dry for a couple days, and store

Dahlia

*Full sun (up to Zone 6) part shade for Zones 7+

*Rich, well-drained soil

*Requires ample watering

Daylilies

*Average soil; full-sun to part shade

*Rugged and extremely adaptable

*Generally does not do well when planted near trees

Gladiolus

*Stagger out the planting of these bulbs. Plant a batch and wait a week to plant another. This will provide a continuous bloom.

*Corms should be planted in well-drained soil, 4-6 inches deep, 6-8 inches apart.

Lily

*Requires well-drained, moist soil and full-sun

*Most bulbs will require 4-5 inches of soil covering; space 6-10 inches apart

As we get closer to spring and the threat of frost has lifted, we will follow-up with how to plant and maintain a summer bulb garden.

February To-Do's

• Start ordering seeds now to take advantage of early discounts and good selections. 

• Start slow-growers indoors. Celery, leeks, and onions need several months before they are ready to be transplanted outdoors. You can also start small-seeded flowers, such as petunias and begonias. Keep the seeds warm to encourage development of a strong root system.

• If you are forcing bulbs indoors, now is a good time to check them out. If the tips have started and there's a couple inches of growth, move them to a cool, bright room. For more on forcing bulbs, check out our post, "Baby It's Cold Outside."

• You can start forcing spring bloomers forsythia, dogwood, and crabapple by cutting the branches and putting them in warm water. Make long slanted cuts when collecting branches. Re-cut the stems to increase water absorption , and change the water every four days. Give them about 3 weeks to bloom.

• Feed your houseplants. Dilute the strength by half. Houseplants will tend to become leggy this time of year, continue to pinch back new growth 

• Now is a good time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs.

Greenhouses Pt. 3...Let It Grow!

The greenhouse is set up and ready to go, now it's time to get our grow on.

Greenhouses 101 Part 2: Set-Up

Ok, you've done your research and found a greenhouse to suit your needs, now what?

"Mary, Mary Quite Contrary, How Does Your Garden Grow?"

A friend who is interested in setting up a greenhouse has asked for tips and suggestions, so this blog will be Part I of the Greenhouse Trilogy...A greenhouse is a gardener's fantasy; a place where they can play mad scientist and control the climate. Imagine being able to grow anything, anywhere, anytime!

Fight The Blight...

Have you ever grown tomatoes that end up looking like this? 

Well, my friend, you may have had blight. 

Either early or late, blight is a highly contagious fungus; a strain of which caused the Irish potato famine. Spores are often present in soil, and it is believed that commercially-grown garden center plants have spread the fungus to our own backyards. Part of the problem is that big-box retailers do not have employees who are trained to spot plant diseases and pathogens.

What You Should Know

                                          Train yourself to spot unhealthy plants.

Signs of blight include: 

       - white, powdery spores

       - large, olive-green or brown lesions on the leaves

       - brown or open lesions on stems

**A single open lesion on one plant can produce hundreds of thousands of contagious spores. Fungicides can help protect unaffected plants, but nothing can cure blight once it breaks out except, perhaps, a hot, sunny day.**

What To Do With An Infected Plant

Pull the plant, seal it in a Ziplock style bag, and throw it away or burn it. Be careful! Remember, you do not want spores flying all over the place. Do not compost the plant, unless you want all your plants to become infected. 

How To Help Prevent Blight

• When purchasing plants, select wilt and nematode resistant varieties.

• Choose different varieties that mature at different times. A good thing to know is that the earlier the plant matures, the more susceptible it is to early blight.

• Do not plant tomatoes and potatoes close together.

• Rotate your planting spot on a yearly basis. 

• When watering, only water at the plant's base and do it early in the day so that any moisture that does get on the plant will be quickly dried by the sun.  

• Use a staking system. Staking encourages air movement, reducing moisture on the foliage and helps prevent root rot.

• Mulch

• Remove the bottom branches, especially if they touch the ground. Remember, the spores are in the soil. Cut them with a pair of scissors or garden shears. Trim right at the plant's stem. 

• Monitor the lower leaves for early blight and the top foliage for late blight. Late blight is fast and aggressive.

• Remove all plant debris from the garden in the fall. Blight can overwinter on plant tissue.

• Make sure to thoroughly wash your hands and/or gloves after touching infected plants.

Hopefully, with these tips, your next batch of tomatoes will be healthy, nutritious, and above all, delicious!